Sched.org is a Pretty Nice SXSW Calendar

Sched.org — Pretty Nice SXSW Calendar

I’m going to SXSW this year (in fact, this weekend) and I was looking around for an online calendar that might help me plan which panels I was going to. (South by Southwest, in case you might not be familiar with it, is a music, film, and interactive festival/conference in Austin, Texas.) The sxsw.com website usually has a semi-usable calendar, but I just couldn’t get it to work this year.

Some friends of mine mentioned a third-party calendaring option, Sched.org, and I thought I’d give that a shot. I must say, I was pleasantly surprised. In fact, it’s great — it’s easy to use, intuitive, and uses just enough Ajax to be helpful without getting in the way. Anyhow, I’ve worked out my calendar and I think I’ve figured out most of the panels that I’d like to go to. As you might guess, if you see two panels listed for the same time slot, it means that I like both of them and just haven’t yet figured out which to go to. For instance, like these:

Of course, I’m open to ideas if you have any suggestions on resolving those stalemates. One way or another, I’ll figure things out :).

Chrismakwanzakah 2007 Photos

Dad Smiling on the Couch

I saw my parents and brother over Chrismakwanzakah (well, mostly Christmas, in this case) and I took some shots during my visit. As it worked out, I took 44 shots and I’ve posted six of those. (Ok, laugh it up, fuzzball. Yeah, I know it’s March.)

I like to post just those shots that I’m happy with, so it’s par for the course that I end up posting fewer shots than the number of times I happened to have hit the shutter. Still, I usually aim for a higher ratio than this. What happened, as I discovered, is that while some people can hold hold a shot at 1/30 of a second, well, I’m apparently not one of those people. Candid shots are my bread-and-butter and hand-holding the camera goes right in line with that.

You may have heard that old adage about taking 1/ focal length to estimate the minimum shutter speed at which a handheld shot can remain acceptably sharp. (For instance, according to the adage, an 80mm focal length would need at least a 1/80 sec shutter speed in order to have a good chance of being sharp.) That’s said to be true for 35mm film, but the math does need to be updated a bit for digital cameras. Due to their smaller sensors, the “1/ ” part needs to multiplied by the crop factor of the camera (which is typically about 1.6 for Canon bodies and 1.5 for Nikon bodies).

Since I was shooting most of the time with my 50mm lens, the rule would suggest that I’d need a shutter speed of at least 1/75 sec. in order to get a good chance at a sharp image. Well, with the caveat that everyone is a little different — and some people may be able to hold a camera more steadily than I can — I can confirm that the rule is a pretty good guideline. Or, put another way, that would explain why the dozen or so otherwise-good shots (that happened to have a shutter speed of 1/30 sec.) didn’t have the sharpness I was looking for.

If I’m in a similar situation again, I think I’ll try increasing my ISO speed; most of my not-sharp shots were taken with an ISO of around 200-320 and there probably wouldn’t have been much to lose if I had increased the ISO to 400 or even 800. (Since doubling the ISO value captures twice as much light, those forget-about-it shots at 1/30 sec. might have been saved by a 1/60 sec. shutter speed.) I’d probably hesitate to use ISO 1600 if I could help it (as that’s when digital noise can start getting in the way), but from what I’ve read, most modern DSLRs can handle ISO 800 with only trivial (if any) levels of noticeable noise.

New JL Audio Subwoofers

Trunk View of the Subwoofers

I first upgraded my car audio in 2002, primarily to get Sirius satellite radio, but also as a step up from the factory audio system. The system worked very nicely until about a fortnight ago when one of the channels in my amp died. And, since it had been about five years since I had bought it, the amp was well out of warranty.

Since I had to buy a new amp anyway, I told myself that I may as well upgrade my subwoofers as well (hey, why not?). Though my previous subwoofers, a pair of 10" MB Quart subs, had served me well, I had always hoped for a little more bass extension. So, after doing a bit of research, I picked up a pair of 12" JL Audio 12W3v3 subs. In my old configuration, I was running my MB Quart subs off a multichannel amp — not to worry, it was a 5-channel amp — but I figured that I'd go for a separate amp for the subwoofer this time. So, I picked up JL Audio’s 500/1 monoblock amp for that.

I just had the new gear yesterday and, as a whole, I’m very pleased with it. It certainly has the bass extension that I was looking for. Depending on how you look at it, it’s almost too much of a good thing — after driving around town for a bit this afternoon, all the while listening to Sirius at normal volume levels, I noticed when I got home that my ears were ringing a little bit. Feh. My best guess is that it may not have seemed as loud as it actually was since the frequencies were so low. Either way, the last thing I want to lose it my hearing, so I’ll be adjusting that straight away.

PS The lighting in the shot above may look a bit weird, but rest assured that I don't have a sodium vapor lamp in my trunk. (Those are the ugly yellow/orange lamps commonly seen around parking lots and the like.) Rather, the sun had already started to set (I took that picture with a 13 second exposure around 6:30 p.m.) and, while I was able to correct the color balance for the exterior sunlight, that meant that the incandescent light within my trunk was going to look a little exaggerated.

Update 2007-02-19: I took my Radio Shack sound level meter (similar to this one, but an older iteration) out to the car to look into my volume issues yesterday. That particular meter has both “Fast” and “Slow” response modes that control how fast the needle moves. The “Slow” mode is good for getting an average sound level, but I set it to “Fast” in this case so that I could get differentiate the second-by-second sound levels within songs.

I turned my key to the “Accessories” mode and then chose a Sirius radio station that was playing a song that I liked. As it turned out — listening at ordinary volume levels — the normal parts of songs were around 70–72 dB. When the bass started to come in, though, I could see fraction-of-a-second spikes of up to 95 dB. Well, yikes, that would kinda explain the ringing in my ears from the other day.

I soon went about reducing the subwoofer gain and ended up on what happened to be its lowest setting. From there, I took some more measurements and found that bass-heavy musical phrases were only reaching into the lower 80s (whew). I may do some more adjustments later (if only to see if I can further level the frequency response), but at least my hearing should be safe for now.

Nikon D80 For Sale, Lightly Used (SOLD)

Update 2008-01-25: I’ve sold the camera (body + kit lens), the 50mm lens, and the 4 GB SD card.

Nikon D80 For Sale, Lightly Used

I’ve decided to sell my Nikon D80 in pursuit of an upgrade. Here’re the details:

I have a Nikon D80 with the 18-135mm kit lens. The camera works just fine and I can see no visible scratches on it. (I’m not ruling out that there may be a faint scratch somewhere, but I just couldn’t find any when I looked.) To help come up with a fair price, I checked the prices online; the lowest price that I could find from a non fly-by-night retailer was about $1050, so I figured on offering the body and kit lens for $800.

As you might guess, that includes everything that came in the box, including the D80 body & camera strap, the 18-135mm kit lens, its battery and AC battery charger, its USB cable, and the manual. And, just to make things more interesting, I’ll also toss in a spare 3rd-party battery and a 1 GB Sandisk SD card.

In addition to the D80, I also have a couple accessories which could go along with that:

  • I bought a Nikon 50mm f/1.4 lens back in September. That’s currently going for about $270 online and I’d be willing to sell mine for $200.

  • I also have a 4 GB Extreme Ducati-Edition SD card from Sandisk. (The Ducati Edition is their very fastest model line.) Their online price is about $100 and I could sell that for $70.

Anyhow, if any of this is of interest, just drop me a line. And if you’re in the Dallas area, I’d be happy to show any of the gear to you.

PS As mentioned above, I’ve sold the camera and the accessories. I’ll be sure to update this post once I’ve sold the camera. Or, put another way, if you’re seeing this post (and I haven’t mentioned otherwise), you can assume the camera is still available :).